Skip to content

Temporary buydown

The temporary buydown calculator.

When the rate is the thing keeping you on the fence, a temporary buydown lowers the payment for up to three years without waiting on the market. The seller or builder prepays part of your interest at closing, your note rate never changes, and the payment steps up on a schedule you can see in advance. Enter the home, your down payment, and your credit band. This tool prices the 3-2-1, 2-1, 1-1, and 1-0 structures on a conventional loan and an FHA loan side by side, works out the seller concession you would need to ask for, and checks that ask against the limit each loan program allows. Every result is an illustrative estimate with the assumptions shown.

Price the buydown


Run your numbers.

Work down the left side: the home and the loan, the monthly costs beyond the loan, and what you would ask the seller to cover. The estimate updates as you type. It opens with a sample price, a five percent down payment, current reference rates for both loan types, and statewide Utah averages for tax and insurance, so change every figure that is not yours.

Your year-one payment is pinned to the bottom of your screen. Tap it to see every year of the buydown for both loans and the seller concession to ask for.

The home and the loan

Both loans start from the same price and down payment so the comparison is fair. The credit band changes only the conventional mortgage insurance; FHA charges the same premium at every score.

$

Sets the conventional mortgage-insurance rate. FHA's premium does not change with your score. Conventional rate pricing also worsens as the score drops; reflect that in the rate field if you have a quote.

Credit-band pricing is unavailable right now, so conventional mortgage insurance is shown at the top-tier rate for every band.

Buydown structure

Each number is the rate reduction for one year. A 2-1 takes 2 points off in year one and 1 point off in year two; a 1-1 takes 1 point off for two years.

%
%

Default rates as of the date shown. Rates change frequently and are not a quote.

yrs
Conventional loan $0 FHA base loan $0 FHA loan with upfront MIP financed $0

FHA adds its upfront mortgage insurance premium to the loan, so the FHA balance starts higher than the conventional one at the same down payment.

Monthly costs beyond the loan

A buydown lowers only the principal and interest. Taxes, insurance, mortgage insurance, and any HOA payment are the same in every year, so they are shown inside every payment here.

Primary residence, with Utah's residential exemption already applied.

Percent of value per year, or tap the unit for dollars.

$

Leave at 0 if the home has none.

Mortgage insurance
Conventional
FHA

Per month, from the loan-to-value and the credit band.

What you would ask the seller to cover

The buydown is paid out of a seller concession, and so are any closing costs you ask the seller to cover. Both count against the same program limit, which is why the ask is checked as a total.

$

Fees plus prepaids from a Loan Estimate. Used for both loans.

Estimated closing costs
Conventional
FHA

Lender and title fees, recording, and prepaid tax, insurance, and interest.

Conventional limit $0 FHA limit $0

What each program allows a seller to contribute at this down payment. Not what a seller will agree to.

About these estimates

Estimates only. This is not a quote, offer, pre-approval, or commitment to lend. Figures are illustrative and depend on the assumptions you choose.

This tool is for general information only. It is not legal, tax, investment, or financial advice. Consult a qualified professional for guidance specific to your situation.

Want numbers tailored to you? Let's talk.

Your payment, year by year

Enter your figures

Year Conventional FHA

Each payment includes principal and interest at that year's rate, plus taxes, insurance, mortgage insurance, and any HOA. The seller-paid figure is the interest the buydown covers that year.

Estimates only, not a quote, offer, pre-approval, or commitment to lend. Talk to Scott for your actual terms.


What the buydown does

The seller's share shrinks, your payment steps up

Every bar is the full monthly payment. The solid part is what you pay that year; the hatched end is the interest the seller's buydown funds cover. By the last row the seller's share is gone and the payment is the one you qualified for from the start.

The ask

What to ask the seller for

The buydown cost, the closing costs if you ticked them, and the total, checked against what each loan program lets a seller contribute at your down payment.

Conventional
Buydown cost $0
Closing costs $0
Total to ask for $0
Program limit $0

FHA
Buydown cost $0
Closing costs $0
Total to ask for $0
Program limit $0

Your options

All four structures side by side

Year-one payment, what the buydown costs the seller, and whether that cost fits under each program's concession limit on its own. Pick a row to price it above.

Structure Conventional FHA
Year 1 Buydown cost Under the limit? Year 1 Buydown cost Under the limit?

Conventional or FHA At your credit band

Enter your figures to compare the two loans.

Once the buydown ends Conventional FHA
Principal and interest $0 $0
Mortgage insurance $0 $0
Full monthly payment $0 $0
Year-one payment with the buydown $0 $0
Upfront premium financed None $0
Mortgage insurance ends
Where the lines cross

The full monthly payment at each credit band, same home and rates. Conventional mortgage insurance is priced by score; FHA's is not, which is why FHA often wins on the payment for scores around 680 and below.

The same money as a price cut

Buydown or a lower price?

Monthly relief, conventional With the buydown With the price cut

Share this scenario

This link carries every figure on the page exactly as you have it set and updates as you change the fields. Send it to your agent or your lender and the calculator reopens just as you left it, so the ask you write into the offer is the one you priced here. Copy summary gives you the same picture as plain text.

Keep exploring

Other tools for the same buying decision.

All calculators

How to use it


Make the inputs yours.

The sample scenario is there so the page is useful the moment it loads. Two figures matter most: your down payment, which sets how much a seller is allowed to pay, and your credit score, which decides whether a conventional loan or an FHA loan is cheaper for you.

Start with your real down payment

How much a seller is allowed to pay depends on it. With less than ten percent down, a conventional seller can pay up to three percent of the price; with ten percent or more, up to six. FHA allows six percent at any down payment.

Choose how big a buydown to ask for

A 3-2-1 gives the biggest first-year relief and costs the most, and it usually will not fit under a three percent limit. A 2-1 usually does. The table shows all four so you can see what a seller could realistically pay for.

Check that the seller is allowed to pay it

If your total is more than the loan program allows, the tool says by how much and what would work instead: a smaller buydown, paying your own closing costs, or a bigger down payment. A seller cannot pay more than the limit even if they want to, so do not ask for it in the offer.

Compare the two loans at your credit score

Change the credit score and watch the conventional mortgage insurance move while FHA's stays put. That is where FHA starts to win on the payment. The row for when the insurance ends shows what conventional wins back later.

Plan for the payment going back up

You are approved at the full payment, and that is the last row of the table. If rates fall you can refinance; if they do not, the higher payment is one you already planned for. Do not count on the refinance.

Send it to your agent

Copy the link and the exact scenario goes with it. Your agent writes the seller credit into the offer and your lender sets up the buydown at closing, so both of them should be working from the same numbers you see here.

Ask me to check the numbers first Read the mortgage guides

The long version


What a temporary buydown is, and how to use one.

Everything the calculator assumes, in plain language, from the escrow account that makes it work to the concession limits that decide what you can ask for. Written from the lending side, where I set these up.

On this page

A fixed-rate loan with some of the interest prepaid

A temporary buydown is not a different kind of mortgage. It is an ordinary fixed-rate loan, conventional or FHA, with one addition: at closing, someone other than you deposits a lump sum with the loan servicer, and for the first one to three years that deposit pays part of your interest each month. Your note rate is fixed from day one and never changes. What changes is how much of each month's payment comes out of your account and how much comes out of the buydown fund.

The person funding it is almost always the seller of an existing home or the builder of a new one. It is written into the purchase contract as a seller concession, the same mechanism that pays a buyer's closing costs, and it is paid out of the seller's proceeds at closing. Occasionally a lender offers one as a promotion. Some programs also let a buyer fund one, but in that case the same dollars usually do more as a larger down payment or a permanent rate buydown, so ask before going that route.

How the money moves

Take a 2-1 on a loan with a note rate in the sevens. In year one the buydown fund pays the difference between the payment at the note rate and the payment at two points below it. In year two it pays the difference at one point below. In year three the fund is empty and you pay the full amount. The servicer draws from the fund automatically; your statement shows the reduced payment, and the loan amortizes exactly as if you had paid the full amount all along, because in total you did. Nothing is deferred and nothing is added to the balance.

The cost of the buydown is simply the sum of those monthly differences. The calculator prices each year the way a lender's buydown schedule does: the payment at the reduced rate on the full loan amount over the full term, subtracted from the payment at the note rate, times twelve. That total, rounded to the cent, is the deposit the seller makes at closing.

The four structures

A 3-2-1 reduces the rate by three points in year one, two in year two, and one in year three. A 2-1 reduces it by two points, then one. A 1-1 reduces it by one point for two years, which gives a flatter first two years for less money than a 2-1. A 1-0 reduces it by one point for a single year. Each larger structure costs roughly twice the one below it: a 3-2-1 runs about twice a 2-1, and a 2-1 about three times a 1-0. That is why the concession limit, not the seller's generosity, usually decides which one is possible.

Who can pay, and how much

Because the buydown is funded by an interested party to the sale, it counts against the same contribution limit as any other seller-paid cost, closing costs included. On a conventional loan the limit depends on your loan-to-value: three percent of the price when the down payment is under ten percent, six percent when it is ten percent or more. The agency guidelines allow more at twenty-five percent down; the calculator uses the two limits most buyers meet. FHA allows six percent at any down payment. VA allows four percent, and the buydown funds count toward it.

Run the sample scenario and you can see why this matters. On a five percent down conventional loan, a 3-2-1 costs more than the three percent limit by itself, so no seller can fund one no matter how motivated. A 2-1 fits, with a little room left toward closing costs but not enough to cover all of them. On FHA, with its six percent limit, the same 2-1 plus every closing cost fits with room to spare. A buyer choosing between the two loans should know that before the offer is written.

A limit is not an entitlement. It is the most a program will let a seller contribute. What a seller agrees to depends on the home, the competition for it, and the market. In Utah the credits sellers actually agree to usually run one to three percent of the price, which is why a three percent ask on a five percent down loan is a normal request in a buyer's market and a long shot in a seller's market.

You qualify at the full payment

Both the conventional and the FHA rulebooks require the lender to qualify you at the note rate, not the reduced rate. That is a feature, not a catch. It means the step-up in year two or three is a payment the underwriter has already decided you can carry, and the buydown years are relief on top of an approval you would have received anyway. It also means a buydown does not stretch what you can buy; it makes the first years of what you can already buy easier.

If you sell or refinance early

The buydown fund belongs to the loan, not to the seller who filled it. If you pay the loan off before the fund is used up, whether by selling or by refinancing, the buydown agreement says what happens to the balance. In the usual form it is applied to your loan payoff as a principal reduction, so you get the benefit either way. Read the agreement at closing so you know which form yours takes. This is also why a buydown pairs well with a rate you might refinance out of: if rates fall in year two, the remaining funds are not wasted.

Buydown, price cut, or points

A seller with a fixed amount to give can hand it over three ways. A price cut lowers the loan, the down payment, and every payment for the life of the loan, by a small amount each month. A temporary buydown puts the whole amount into the first years, when the payment hurts most and the household is absorbing moving costs. A permanent buydown, meaning discount points, lowers the note rate for the life of the loan; its price changes with the market every day, so this calculator does not attempt it, and a live quote is the only honest way to compare it.

The price-cut card above does the first comparison for you. In a typical scenario the buydown delivers several hundred dollars a month of relief in year one and the price cut a few dozen, but the price cut keeps paying, and it takes well over a decade for it to catch up. Which is better depends on how long you expect to hold the loan and how much the first years matter to your budget. Sellers often prefer the concession because the recorded sale price holds, which matters to their appraisal and to the neighborhood's comparable sales.

When it makes sense, and when it does not

It makes sense when you plan to stay, when the first years are the tight ones, when you are buying in a market where sellers are negotiating, and on new construction, where builders often fund buydowns as a standing incentive. It makes less sense when you would be counting on a refinance to rescue year three, when the seller would give the same dollars as a price cut and you expect to hold the loan for a long time, or when closing costs already use up the concession limit and the buydown would push the ask over it.

How to ask for it in Utah

The mechanics are simple once the numbers are set. Your agent writes the seller concession into the purchase contract as a credit toward your closing costs, prepaids, and buydown funds; the amount is what this calculator calls the total to ask for, and it should never exceed the program limit. Your lender confirms the structure is available on your loan, prices it, prepares the buydown agreement, and sets up the fund at closing. The appraisal still has to support the full purchase price, since a concession does not lower it. Bring the link to this page to both conversations so everyone is working from the same figures, and if you want the numbers checked before the offer goes in, that is exactly what I do.

Selling, and thinking about offering one? A funded buydown is a listing tactic too: it solves the buyer's monthly problem directly and usually costs less than the price cut that would deliver the same first-year relief. Here is how listing with Moving Utah works.

Good to know


Questions about temporary buydowns.

A temporary buydown is a fixed-rate mortgage, conventional or FHA, with part of the interest for the first one to three years prepaid at closing by someone other than you, usually the seller or the builder. The prepaid amount sits in an escrow account with your loan servicer and covers the difference between the full payment and a reduced one each month, on a schedule set in advance. Your note rate, your loan amount, and your amortization never change; only the share of each payment that comes out of your own account does, until the fund is used up and you pay the full amount.

Each number is the rate reduction, in percentage points, for one year of the loan. A 3-2-1 lowers the rate three points in year one, two in year two, and one in year three. A 2-1 lowers it two points, then one. A 1-1 lowers it one point for two years, and a 1-0 lowers it one point for a single year. After the last buydown year the payment is the full one at the note rate. The calculator prices all four at once and lets you pick any of them for the detailed view.

The way a lender's buydown schedule does it. For each buydown year, the tool works out the monthly principal and interest at the reduced rate on the full loan amount over the full term, subtracts it from the payment at the note rate, rounds to the cent, and multiplies by twelve. The sum of those years is the deposit the seller makes at closing. Taxes, insurance, mortgage insurance, and HOA dues are not part of it; a buydown reduces only the interest, which is why those lines are the same in every year of the payment table.

Yes, it counts, along with any closing costs the seller pays, because all of it is an interested-party contribution. On a conventional loan the limit is three percent of the price when the down payment is under ten percent and six percent when it is ten percent or more; the agency guidelines allow more at twenty-five percent down. FHA allows six percent at any down payment, and VA allows four percent with the buydown funds counted. The calculator reads these limits from the same shared data the other calculators use and checks your total ask against them. A limit is what the program allows, not what a seller will agree to.

Because the two loans price mortgage insurance differently. Conventional mortgage insurance is priced by credit score and loan-to-value, so it gets more expensive as the score drops. FHA charges the same annual premium at every score, plus an upfront premium financed into the loan. With strong credit the conventional premium is small and conventional usually carries the lower payment; around 680 and below the conventional premium grows enough that FHA often wins on the monthly figure. The comparison card shows the crossing point for your scenario. Conventional wins something back later, because its insurance ends once the balance reaches eighty percent of value, while FHA's lasts the life of the loan with less than ten percent down.

The full one. Both conventional and FHA rules require the lender to qualify you at the note rate, not the bought-down rate. That means the step-up in year two or three is a payment the underwriter has already decided you can carry, and the buydown years are relief on top of an approval you would have received anyway. A buydown does not increase what you can buy; it makes the first years of what you can already buy easier.

The buydown agreement you sign at closing says what happens to the unused balance. In the usual form it is applied to your loan payoff as a principal reduction, so the money is not lost when you refinance or sell early. Read the agreement so you know which form yours takes. The seller does not get it back.

It depends on how long you hold the loan and when the money matters to you. A price cut lowers the loan and every payment for the life of the loan by a small amount; a temporary buydown puts the whole amount into the first years. The price-cut card prices both from the same dollars and shows how many years it would take the price cut to catch up. Sellers often prefer the concession because the recorded sale price holds. A permanent rate buydown, meaning discount points, is a third option; its price moves with the market daily, so this calculator does not attempt it and a live quote is the only honest comparison.

No. Both rates are editable assumptions pre-filled with recent reference rates for a conventional and an FHA 30-year loan, not offers or forecasts. Your actual rates depend on your credit, the loan details, the property, and market conditions when you lock, and conventional pricing in particular gets worse as the credit score drops. Change either rate to any figure you want to test.

Yes. The web address updates as you change the fields, so the link in your browser bar always reopens the calculator with the exact scenario on screen, buydown structure and credit band included. The Copy link button does the same in one click, which makes it easy to send the ask to your agent and your lender before the offer is written. Every value that arrives in a link is checked against the same limits the fields enforce, so an edited or mistyped link cannot produce an impossible estimate.

Looking for the rest of the suite? Browse all calculators or head back to resources.


Ready to ask for the right number?

Bring the link to this page. I will confirm the concession limit for your loan, price the structure against a live rate, and make sure the ask holds up at underwriting before it goes into the offer. Outside Southern Utah, the lending side of my work covers the whole state; for the search itself I can connect you with partner agents I trust, or you can work with any agent you choose.