The Buckhorn Wash pictograph panel
West wall of the wash · Free · Spring and autumn · Directions
A wall of sandstone in Buckhorn Wash carries one of the finest Barrier Canyon style pictograph panels anywhere. Barrier Canyon style is painted rather than carved: tall, narrow, elongated figures in red ochre, laid onto the rock face rather than cut into it, and the style is more than two thousand years old. Later Fremont petroglyphs sit alongside them on the same wall, which makes this two records rather than one.
There is a short trail from a parking area, interpretive panels put up by the Bureau of Land Management, a shade structure, picnic tables and a pit toilet. It costs nothing and there is nobody on a gate. What there is instead is a set of expectations about behavior, and given the history of this particular wall those expectations are not decorative.
This panel was rescued once already
Buckhorn Wash carried a branch of the Old Spanish Trail, which meant a century and a half of people passing directly beneath the figures, and the wall was defaced repeatedly over that time. For Utah's state centennial in 1996, Emery County residents started a conservation project, carried out jointly with the Bureau of Land Management and state and county government and executed by a professional art conservator over roughly six weeks. What you are looking at is the result of that work.
Paint is more fragile than a carving, not less
This is the point people get backwards. A pecked petroglyph is cut into the stone. A pictograph is pigment sitting on the surface of it. Touching, leaning, wetting, chalking or rubbing a painted panel takes some of it away permanently, and no conservator can put back what is not there. Photograph from the trail, keep your hands and your water bottle to yourself, add nothing to the rock and take nothing off the ground.
The details
Getting there
East and south out of the valley on the Buckhorn Draw road, reached from the Cleveland and Castle Dale side. The site is signed, with a parking area, a shade structure, picnic tables and a pit toilet.
Before you go
- Do not touch the painted figures. Pigment comes off and does not go back on.
- No chalk, no water, no rubbings, no tracing. All of them destroy a pictograph.
- Take nothing off the ground, including anything you intend to put back.
- Read the interpretive panels rather than an online interpretation. The agency stands behind the signs.
- There is no water, fuel or shop anywhere on this road. Everything comes from town.
The dinosaur track in the wash wall
Buckhorn Draw road · Free · Year round in dry conditions · Directions
Further along the draw, a three toed print sits in the Navajo sandstone: an ornithopod track left by an animal crossing what was then a sand dune desert, in rock laid down well over a hundred and eighty million years ago. It is signed, it is a short stop off the road, and it is the sort of thing that makes a gravel road drive worth doing slowly.
It is a single track rather than a trackway, and it is a good deal more modest than the bone bed twenty miles north of here. What it does that the quarry cannot is put the animal in a landscape: the same sandstone the print is in makes the walls you are driving between, which is a more direct connection between a fossil and a place than a display case ever manages.
Two kinds of fossil, two completely different sites
This is a trace fossil, which is a record of behavior rather than of a body: an animal walked here and the sand kept the shape. The quarry east of Huntington is the opposite, a concentration of bones with almost no trace fossils in it. Seeing both in one weekend is a genuinely good way to understand what the Jurassic in this county actually looks like, and the monument page covers the other half.
Look with your eyes and leave it in the wall
Collecting vertebrate fossils on public land is not permitted, and a track in a wall is not something anybody could take anyway, which is exactly why casual damage is the real risk. Do not put anything into the print, do not pour water in it for a photograph, and do not climb the rock around it. It has been there rather a long time and the aim is that it stays.
The details
Getting there
On the Buckhorn Draw road, signed from the road with a pull off. It sits roughly fifteen miles down the draw from the Castle Dale end.
Before you go
- It is a single track, not a trackway. Set expectations before you drive an hour for it.
- Do not wet the print for a photograph. Water in sandstone does damage.
- Do not climb the rock around it or put anything into the impression.
- Collecting fossils on public land here is not permitted.
- The pull off is small and easy to overshoot. Reset a trip meter at the panel.
The San Rafael swinging bridge and the river crossing
Where the draw meets the river · Free · Year round in dry conditions · Directions
At the bottom of Buckhorn Draw the road reaches the San Rafael River, and beside the modern crossing stands the reason people stop here: a suspension bridge built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s, about 160 feet long, and Utah's oldest intact suspension bridge. Until the 1990s it was the only way across the river at this point.
It no longer carries vehicles. You walk it, which is the better arrangement anyway, and the modern bridge alongside takes the traffic. A Bureau of Land Management recreation site sits at the crossing with tent pads, picnic tables, fire rings and toilets, which makes this the practical base for a night out in the northern Swell if the mesa at the Wedge does not suit.
The CCC is written all over this country
The Civilian Conservation Corps built the bridge, cut a good deal of the road you drove in on, and left its own names carved in the rock near the panel further up the draw. That is an odd double legacy at a rock art site: the same organization that made the place reachable also added to the graffiti problem the 1996 conservation had to deal with. Both facts belong in an honest description of the draw.
A river crossing is a weather question
The San Rafael is a desert river, which means it is small most of the year and occasionally is not. Spring melt and summer monsoon both put water down it, and the washes feeding the draw run hard and fast when a storm hits the country above them. Camping in a wash bottom or a low bench near a desert river is the classic mistake. Check the forecast for upstream rather than for where you are standing.
The details
Getting there
Continue down the Buckhorn Draw road past the pictograph panel to the river crossing, roughly four miles below the panel. The historic bridge is beside the modern one and is for walking only.
Before you go
- The old bridge is for foot traffic. Vehicles use the modern crossing beside it.
- Tent pads, tables, fire rings and toilets at the recreation site. No drinking water.
- Do not camp in a wash bottom or on a low bench by the river. Desert rivers rise.
- Check current fire restrictions with the BLM Price Field Office on 435-636-3600.
- Pack everything out. There is no collection service anywhere in the Swell.
Driving the draw end to end
Buckhorn Draw road · Free · Dry conditions only · Directions
The Buckhorn Draw road is the main route through the part of the Swell north of Interstate 70, and taken end to end it is a long day of gravel. From the Castle Dale and Cleveland side it runs south through the draw, past the panel and the track, down to the river crossing and eventually out to Interstate 70 at exit 131 about thirty miles west of Green River.
Done as a through route it is one of the best gravel drives in Utah and it commits you to a great many miles with nothing on them. Done as an out and back from Huntington, which is how most people should do it first, it is a comfortable half to full day: down to the panel, on to the bridge, and back the way you came with the light behind you.
Decide which version you are doing before you leave town
The out and back from Huntington puts you back on pavement in the valley you started in. The through drive puts you out at Interstate 70 a very long way from Huntington, and then the drive home is the whole width of the county on tarmac. Both are legitimate. Choosing the second by accident at three in the afternoon with a quarter tank is not, and it is a mistake people make because the road keeps going and looks fine.
The road is the hazard and the sky is the warning
Graded gravel here is easy in the dry and difficult in the wet, and the change is quick. Washes cross the road, and a storm that lands on the country above you sends water down them well after the sky overhead has cleared. If weather is building, the correct call is to turn around rather than to press on and find out. There is no signal out here to call for help with and recovery is a long way off.
The details
Getting there
South and east out of Castle Valley on the graded road into the draw. It exits at Interstate 70 exit 131, about thirty miles west of Green River, which is a long way from where you started.
Before you go
- No fuel, water, shop or signal on the entire road. Provision in Huntington.
- Carry a real spare and know how to fit it. This is a long way from a tyre shop.
- Do not enter the draw with storms building. Washes cross the road.
- Decide out and back or through route before you leave, not halfway down.
- Route and camping rules here are set by the BLM and change with new decisions. Read the current version before you go.