The byway Apple Valley
Nine miles of dirt, and the forgiving end of it is this one
The Smithsonian Butte backway, from the bench end.
A Bureau of Land Management National Backcountry Byway runs about nine miles from SR-59 on this bench over to SR-9 at Rockville, climbing past Smithsonian Butte with the back towers of Zion in front of you. From here it is the forgiving direction. It is also a road that closes itself with mud several times a year and gives no notice that it has done so.
Start here
Nine miles of dirt between a bench and a national park.
The Smithsonian Butte National Backcountry Byway runs about nine miles between SR-59 on the Apple Valley bench and SR-9 at Rockville, and the Bureau of Land Management gave it that designation because of what it does with the landscape. It climbs past Smithsonian Butte with the back towers of Zion filling the view ahead, crosses open plateau country nobody has built on, and drops into the Virgin River corridor at the other end.
From this end it is the forgiving direction. The surface is generally reasonable in dry conditions, the gradients are moderate and a careful driver in a high clearance vehicle will manage it comfortably. The steep, rutted section that the BLM warns low clearance vehicles away from is at the far end, on the climb off Grafton Road past the 1924 bridge, which is Rockville's ground.
It is also a shortcut, in miles. It is not reliably a shortcut in time and it is not a route to depend on, because it closes itself with mud several times a year and gives no warning that it has done so.
The byway
9 mi
of dirt, SR-59 to SR-9
BLM
National Backcountry Byway designation
0
fuel, water or services along it
Wet
the one word that closes it
The condition that matters
Impassable when wet is a description, not a warning label.
The surface on parts of this route turns to clay, and clay of this kind does not merely become slippery. It becomes a substance that packs into tyre treads until a vehicle has no tread at all, on a road with gradients and side slopes. That is why the phrase used about this byway is impassable rather than difficult, and why local people treat it as a road that closes itself.
The timescale catches visitors out more than the fact does. A monsoon cell lasting twenty minutes can put this road out of use for a day or more, and conditions on the way out tell you nothing reliable about conditions on the way back. Storms in this country are local and intense, so it is entirely normal for the road to be fine at one end and unusable in the middle.
The honest answer to the question of when to drive it is therefore a settled dry spell, and the honest answer to what to do otherwise is SR-59 to Hurricane and SR-9 east, which is about forty minutes of pavement to Zion's south entrance and works whatever the sky has been doing.
Fine on the way out tells you nothing at all about the way back.
There is nothing along this road: no fuel, no water, no services and no reliable signal. Nine miles is not far until something goes wrong on it. Carry water, make sure the vehicle is in a state to do the whole route rather than half of it, and tell somebody which way you are going and roughly when you expect to be out the other side. A high clearance vehicle is recommended for the full route and is genuinely necessary at the Rockville end.
The landform it is named for
Smithsonian Butte, and the country either side of it.
The butte itself is the fixed point of the drive, standing clear of the plateau with the road working round it, and it is the reason the route reads as a designated byway rather than as a shortcut somebody signposted. On the Apple Valley side it sits in open, largely unbuilt country with long views south and east toward the Arizona Strip.
This is also where the difference between the two ends becomes obvious. From here you are on a plateau with room in every direction. From the Rockville end you are climbing out of a river corridor on a steep, confined pitch. The same road, the same nine miles, and two genuinely different driving experiences depending on which way you point the vehicle.
What the road does not do from this side is take you to Gooseberry Mesa or to Eagle Crags. Those are separate objectives on separate access, and both belong to other companions on this site. The Rockville companion covers the north end, the fork past the 1924 bridge and Wire Mesa, which is its own ground.
Byway or pavement
The comparison that should decide your day.
| The byway | SR-59 and SR-9 | |
|---|---|---|
| Surface | Nine miles of dirt and clay | Pavement the whole way |
| Time to Zion's south entrance | Shorter in miles, unreliable in practice | About 40 minutes, dependably |
| Vehicle | High clearance recommended, needed at the north end | Anything |
| In the wet | Do not | Unaffected |
| Fuel and services | None on the route | Hurricane on the way |
| Why you would | The drive is the point | You need to be somewhere at a time |
Both routes exist for different reasons and the mistake is treating them as interchangeable. If the objective is the road, take the byway on a dry day with time in hand. If the objective is the park gate at a particular hour, take the pavement.
One further practical note for anyone thinking about a property on this bench rather than a day out. The byway is genuinely useful to a resident who watches the weather and knows the road, and it is genuinely useless as a commuting assumption. Nobody here plans a working week around it. It is a fine weather amenity and a poor infrastructure plan, and the paved route through Hurricane is what the town actually runs on.
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Read the pageQuick answers
The byway, answered.
It runs about nine miles between SR-59 on the Apple Valley bench and SR-9 at Rockville, climbing past Smithsonian Butte across open plateau country and dropping into the Virgin River corridor at the northern end. The Bureau of Land Management designates it a National Backcountry Byway. In dry weather it is the scenic shortcut between this bench and Zion's south entrance.
High clearance is recommended for the whole route and is genuinely necessary at the Rockville end, where a steep rutted climb off Grafton Road past the 1924 bridge is the section the BLM warns low clearance vehicles away from. From the Apple Valley end the gradients are moderate and the surface is generally reasonable in dry conditions, which is why this is described as the forgiving direction.
That parts of the surface turn to clay, and clay of this kind packs into tyre treads until a vehicle effectively has none, on a road with gradients and side slopes. It is a description rather than a caution. A monsoon cell lasting twenty minutes can put the road out of use for a day or more, and conditions at one end tell you nothing reliable about conditions in the middle.
Shorter in miles and not reliably shorter in time, and that distinction matters. The paved route is SR-59 northwest to Hurricane and then SR-9 east, about forty minutes to Zion's south entrance, and it works whatever the weather has been doing. Take the byway when the drive itself is the objective and there is time in hand. Take the pavement when you need to be somewhere at a particular hour.
None at all. No fuel, no water, no toilets, no services and no reliable phone signal along its length. Nine miles is not far until something goes wrong on it, so carry water, make sure the vehicle is in a state to complete the whole route rather than half of it, and tell somebody which direction you are travelling and roughly when you expect to come out the other side.
No, that is separate access and a separate objective. Gooseberry Mesa is about eleven miles from Apple Valley on its own mostly dirt approach, and the riding on the mesa belongs to the Hurricane companion on this site. Eagle Crags and Wire Mesa are likewise separate, on the Rockville end of this country, and the Rockville companion covers both along with the north half of this byway.
During a settled dry spell, and ideally with the light working for you. Late afternoon on the northbound run puts the Zion towers ahead of you with the sun behind, and early morning southbound gives the butte its own shadow and the plateau its texture. Avoid the monsoon months entirely unless you have watched the weather for several days, and never start it under a building storm.
No, and nobody here does. It is a fine weather amenity and a poor infrastructure assumption, because it becomes unusable several times a year without notice and there is no alternative once you are committed to it. Residents of this bench run their working week on SR-59 to Hurricane and take the byway when the conditions and the mood coincide. That is the right way to think about it as a buyer too.
Yes, on the Rockville companion, which owns the north half of this road on this site: the fork past the 1924 bridge, the steep rutted climb off Grafton Road that the BLM warns low clearance vehicles away from, Wire Mesa and Eagle Crags into the Canaan Mountain Wilderness. This page deliberately covers the Apple Valley end and the plateau, and does not describe the other town's half in detail.
Nine miles of dirt, and a forty minute paved alternative.
Knowing which of those to take on a given morning is most of what living out here teaches you. If the drive has you looking at the bench rather than the road, the water question is where a purchase actually starts, and it starts with one letter from the town.