Grand Staircase Kanab
From the bottom step
The Grand Staircase, from the Kanab side.
Kanab sits under the Vermilion Cliffs at the bottom of a stack of cliff steps that climbs all the way to Bryce Canyon, and it is the western gateway into Grand Staircase-Escalante. This is the country east and north of town: the drives, what a passenger car can honestly do on them, and how to plan a day out there.
The short answer
The Grand Staircase is the enormous set of cliff steps that climbs from the Grand Canyon up to Bryce, and Kanab sits right at the bottom of it, under the Vermilion Cliffs, as the western gateway into Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. To see it from here you head east and north out of town: the paved US-89 corridor toward Page gives you the White Cliffs and the Paria country with no dirt at all, and Johnson Canyon Road runs north into the cliffs, paved and easy at first before it turns to backcountry dirt. Start at the BLM Kanab Visitor Center for a same-day road report, because out here the plan bends to the weather and not the other way around. Most of the monument's western roads are unpaved, have no services, and want dry conditions and, past the pavement, high clearance.
Start here
Kanab sits at the bottom of a staircase.
The Grand Staircase is a real geological feature and not a marketing name. From the Grand Canyon in the south to Bryce Canyon in the north, the land climbs in a series of enormous cliff steps, each one a different rock and a different color. Geologists named them the Chocolate Cliffs, the Vermilion Cliffs, the White Cliffs, the Gray Cliffs and the Pink Cliffs.
Kanab sits on that staircase, under the Vermilion Cliffs, which is the red wall you can see from almost anywhere in town. Drive north on US-89 and you climb through the White Cliffs. Keep going and you eventually top out in the Pink Cliffs at Bryce. It is one of the few places on earth where you can drive up through a couple of hundred million years of rock in an afternoon and watch the layers change color as you go.
That staircase is why this country looks the way it does, and none of it depends on what any given piece of ground is labeled on a map. The cliffs were here first.
What it is now
Kanab is the monument's western gateway.
Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument was established in 1996 and covers close to 1.87 million acres of BLM public land. It was cut down in 2017 and then restored to its full original extent by proclamation in October 2021, and that restored boundary is what stands today. The western part of the monument, the Grand Staircase country of cliff steps and slot canyons, comes right down toward Kanab, which is why the town works as a base for it.
The BLM runs a visitor center for the monument's western side here in Kanab, on US-89 just east of the US-89A junction. That is the place to stop before you head out: the rangers there have the current road report, the maps, and an honest read on which routes are worth attempting in whatever the weather has been doing. There is no entrance fee to drive the roads or hike for the day.
This is real backcountry. Once you leave the pavement there are no gas stations, no stores, and no help nearby, and cell service disappears fast. None of that is a reason to stay away. It is a reason to plan the day around conditions rather than around a photo you saw.
Get a same-day road report before you commit. Johnson Canyon Road is dirt at the top, Skutumpah is impassable when wet, and the BLM Kanab Visitor Center is the reliable source for what the road is actually doing today. Plan around conditions, not around how it looked last week.
The honest part
What a normal car can actually do.
This is the question everybody actually has, and most guides dodge it. Johnson Canyon Road is paved for its first stretch north from US-89 and any car will manage that. It is a lovely, easy drive with the cliffs on both sides, and for a great many visitors it is enough on its own.
Past the pavement it becomes dirt, and from there north over Skutumpah toward Cannonville it is a long unmaintained route that wants high clearance, a spare, and a dry forecast. Every dirt road in this country turns to something close to grease when the clay gets wet, and that includes roads that were perfectly firm two hours earlier. Recovery out there is slow and expensive because there is nobody nearby.
The practical rule: drive the paved section freely, treat the dirt as a genuine backcountry commitment, and ask somebody who knows what it looks like today before you commit. Cell coverage drops away fast once you leave the highway, which is the other thing worth planning around.
A dry dirt road out here is easy. The same road two hours after a storm is a different road, and it does not care what your plan was.
Scott Buehler
Moving Utah About Scott
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More of Kanab on The Local.
Down in the rock
The slot canyons near Kanab
The walk-in slots off these same roads, which ones need nothing but boots, and the flash-flood rule that keeps you alive in them.
Read the guideThe paperwork
Permits and lotteries
The Wave, the overnight canyons, and the day-use rules, laid out so you know what needs planning months ahead and what you can just drive to.
Read the guideThe easy one
Coral Pink Sand Dunes
The paved, easygoing counterpoint to all this dirt: pink dunes on a state park road any car can reach, a short drive west of town.
Read the guideQuick answers
The staircase, answered.
A real geological feature rather than a marketing name. Between the Grand Canyon and Bryce Canyon the land rises in a series of enormous cliff steps, each one a different rock and color, named the Chocolate, Vermilion, White, Gray and Pink Cliffs. Kanab sits on that staircase beneath the Vermilion Cliffs, which is the red wall visible from most of town.
The monument covers close to 1.87 million acres of BLM public land. It was established in 1996, reduced in 2017, and restored to its full original extent by proclamation in October 2021, which is the boundary that stands today. The western part of the monument comes down toward Kanab, which is why the town works as a base for it.
Kanab is the western gateway. Start at the BLM Kanab Visitor Center on US-89 just east of the US-89A junction for the current road report and maps, then head out on Johnson Canyon Road or the paved US-89 corridor. Most of the monument's western roads are unpaved, have no services, and want dry weather and, past the pavement, high clearance. There is no fee to drive or to hike for the day.
Graded dirt and sand, and it changes with the weather rather than with the season. Johnson Canyon Road is the friendliest of them, and everything branching off it asks progressively more of a vehicle.
Not reliably, and not at all in most of the drainages. Download maps before you leave pavement, tell somebody your route, and carry more water than the day appears to need.
The first stretch north from US-89 is paved and any car will manage it, and for many visitors that easy drive between the cliffs is enough on its own. Past the pavement it turns to dirt, and continuing north over Skutumpah toward Cannonville is a long unmaintained route that wants high clearance and a dry forecast.
The clay turns slick and roads that were firm two hours earlier become genuinely difficult. This applies across the whole area, including House Rock Valley Road on the permit side. Recovery is slow and expensive because there is nobody nearby and cell coverage drops off quickly once you leave the highway. Check conditions the same day rather than relying on how it was last week.
The Johnson Canyon side, the old movie set ground, and the country north toward Skutumpah in dry conditions. The deeper monument routes are full day commitments with the right vehicle.
Not for day use on the roads and most trails. Overnight travel and some specific canyons run their own systems, so check current requirements with the land managers before planning a night out.
The designation moves. The cliffs do not.
The boundaries around here have been redrawn more than once, and the country itself never noticed. If you want the honest version of what it is like to live next to this much public land, that is a conversation I am always glad to have.
Or call me: (435) 357-4345or send me a message
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