The letter Provo
One letter, because they ran out of daylight before the other two
Y Mountain, and the letter above the city
A mile and a bit of switchbacks, roughly 1,050 feet of gain, and a concrete letter 380 feet tall that a human chain poured in a single day in April 1906. The trail, the letter and about 81 acres around them belong to the university at the bottom of the hill, which is why the path is graded like a road and the parking lot is gated at ten.
The short answer
The hike to the Y is a little over a mile each way and climbs roughly 1,050 feet, which most people walk up in forty five minutes to an hour and back down in rather less. It is short but genuinely steep, a wall of switchbacks with no flat stretch, and the trailhead, the letter and the ground around them belong to Brigham Young University at the foot of the hill. The trail and the parking are free. The lot opens at four in the morning and is gated at ten at night, and it is small enough that on summer sunrises and football Saturdays it fills before most people are up. There is no water anywhere on it and almost no shade above the first few turns, so the season and the hour you pick matter more than the mile does.
Start here
A letter poured by hand before anybody built a road to it
In April 1906 a line of students and faculty formed a human chain up the face of the mountain east of Provo and passed buckets of lime, sand and rock up it. The plan was three letters. After six hours of it they had finished one, the middle one, and the other two were postponed and then quietly canceled. That is why a single letter has sat on this hillside for a hundred and twenty years instead of a word.
It was built in stages rather than all at once. A layer of rock went on in 1907. In 1908 a three foot concrete wall was added around it, using twenty thousand pounds of concrete hauled up the same slope. The finished letter measures 380 feet tall by 130 feet wide, which makes it larger than any individual letter of the Hollywood Sign, and it is legible from most of the valley floor and from the aircraft descending into the airport four miles west.
The tradition of lighting the Y began in 1924, and in its early years it was a genuinely hazardous business: crews carried combustible material up the trail, laid it around the perimeter and set it alight. The permanent LED lighting embedded in the letter today, wired down to campus, was installed in 2016, so the Y can now be lit for an occasion at the flip of a switch rather than by anyone climbing the mountain with something to burn.
The letter and the trail
1906
the year it was poured, in a single day
380 ft
tall, by 130 feet wide
1.06 mi
from the parking lot to the letter
1,050 ft
of gain, roughly, on the way up
The walk
A mile of switchbacks, and the second half is the half that hurts
This is a short trail with a serious gradient rather than a long trail with an easy one, and the two halves of it behave completely differently. Knowing which half you are on is most of the trick.
The trail leaves the trailhead lot on the east bench and immediately starts switchbacking. The lower turns are in scrub oak with some shade and a reasonable grade, and they lull people. Above them the vegetation thins, the surface gets looser, the turns get shorter and the sun is on you for the rest of the ascent. The distance is 1.1 miles to the letter with roughly 1,050 feet of gain, which works out to a sustained grade most people find harder than the number suggests. The lot at the top is small, and on summer mornings it is the parking rather than the climb that turns people around.
It is benched, graded and surfaced to a standard the surrounding national forest trails are not, with rest points built into the turns. That is a direct consequence of who owns it, and it is why this trail carries the volume it does without falling apart. It is one of the most walked trails in Utah and it looks it, in the good sense.
At the letter the trail arrives at the base of the concrete and you can walk out onto it. The view is the full width of the valley: Provo below, Orem north, Utah Lake filling the western half of the picture and the far shore of the lake beyond it. The most common mistake at this point is to keep going without water, because the trail does continue and it does not get gentler.
Coming down is where the injuries happen. The same loose surface that made the ascent hard work makes the descent slippery, and the shorter upper turns are steep enough that a jog turns into a slide quickly. Most people take about two thirds of their ascent time going down, not half.
| To the letter | Above the letter | |
|---|---|---|
| Distance | About 1.1 miles one way | The full Y Mountain trail runs several miles further |
| Gain | Roughly 1,050 feet | Substantially more, on rougher ground |
| Surface | Benched, graded and maintained | Forest trail standard, unimproved in places |
| Who is on it | Everybody, at every hour, in every kind of footwear | Very few people, most of them equipped for it |
| Water | None on the trail; carry all of it | None; the calculation gets more serious |
| Sensible turnaround | The letter itself, which is the point of the walk | Only with a plan, a map and time in hand |
The letter is the destination for the overwhelming majority of people who start up this trail, and treating it as one is the right call.
The ownership
A university bought the mountainside, and it took an act of Congress
For most of the letter's life the ground under it belonged to the Forest Service and the university maintained a trail across land it did not own. That was resolved by legislation: Congress passed a bill in December 2014 requiring the conveyance, and Brigham Young University announced the completed purchase of roughly 81 acres in 2016, taking in the full length of the Y Mountain trail, the letter itself and the ground around it.
The practical consequences are the ones that matter to a visitor. The trail is maintained to a university's standard rather than a forest district's, the parking is on university lots kept to university hours, and the rules that apply are institutional rather than municipal: no alcohol, no drugs, no fireworks, no fires and no weapons anywhere on the property, and no demonstrations.
The parking lots open at four in the morning and are secured by a gate at ten at night. The trail itself is normally open to foot traffic around the clock, which is a distinction people discover the hard way when they come down at ten thirty and find the parking lot shut. Sunrise is the busiest hour of the day here by a wide margin, and the four in the morning opening exists because of it.
It also means the ordinary questions have an institutional answer rather than a city one. If you want current rules on dogs, bicycles, group sizes or seasonal work on the trail, the university's own trail guidance is the source, and it is the one that will be enforced.
The parking lot gate closes at ten and the trail does not. Foot traffic on the trail is normally unrestricted around the clock, but the lots that serve it open at four in the morning and are gated at ten at night. That gap catches people every summer: a late start, a long sunset at the letter, a slow descent on loose ground, and a locked parking lot. If the plan involves being on the mountain in the evening, work backwards from ten o'clock rather than from sunset, and leave more margin than the descent looks like it needs.
The year on the trail
Four seasons, and only one of them is straightforwardly pleasant
There is no seasonal closure on this trail, which is not the same as saying every month works the same way. The mountain faces roughly west, it is exposed for most of its length, and both of those facts cut differently in January and in July.
| Season | What the trail is like | The move |
|---|---|---|
| December to March | Snow at the top, ice on the shaded lower turns, and a hard packed surface on the exposed sections | Traction devices. The climb is fine; the descent on ice is what ends badly |
| April and May | The best months. Cool air, green scrub oak, and a surface that has dried out | Any hour of the day works, which is not true again until October |
| June to August | Full sun on a west facing slope with no water and almost no shade above the lower turns | Before seven in the morning, or after seven in the evening with the gate time in mind |
| September and October | Second best. Warm days, cold mornings, and the canyons behind turning color | Late afternoon, for the light across the valley and the lake |
The trail carries traffic in every month of the year and the parking lots keep the same hours throughout. The variable is not access, it is heat, ice and daylight.
A west facing slope with no shade and no water is a different mountain in July than it is in May, and the trail does not change at all.
Where this sits
One of three climbs on the same stretch of bench
This trailhead is about two miles south of the canyon mouth and about three miles from the forest road that reaches the overlook, and all three get written about as though they were the same outing. They are not. Here is where each of the others picks up.
Two miles north
Rock Canyon
A paved first stretch, a creek, hundreds of bolted routes on the walls above it, and no seasonal gate in any month.
Read the pageThe summit
Kyhv Peak and its name
A 7,865 foot summit, a forest road that gates every November, and the renaming that half the maps have not caught up with.
Read the pageThe campus below
BYU and UVU
The venues, the museums, the capacities and the parking rules, written once for the whole valley rather than from one trailhead.
Read the guideScott Buehler
Moving Utah About Scott
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Twelve picks, ranked, with what each costs and the hour it actually works on.
Read the guideThe canyon mouth
Rock Canyon
A paved first mile, hundreds of bolted routes, and the one trailhead that never shuts.
Read the guideThe summit
Kyhv Peak and its name
A 7,865 foot summit that changed its name in 2022, and the road that closes each November.
Read the guideCenter Street
Downtown Provo
Twenty five acres on the National Register, a rebuilt tabernacle, and a two hour rule.
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The Provo River Parkway
Seven and a half city miles from a lake to a canyon mouth, and its newest paved stretch.
Read the guideThe lake door
Utah Lake State Park
Four ramps, a thirty acre marina, and a 260 acre delta that opened next door in 2024.
Read the guideThe runway in town
Provo Airport
Five gates, three airlines, and the first two hours of parking free.
Read the guideThe Fourth
America's Freedom Festival
Balloons at six, a run at seven, a parade at nine and a stadium at eight.
Read the guideMoving here
The university calendar
What the lease year does to a purchase, and the code that decides who may live in it.
Read the guideThe companion
Provo, in full
The letter, the canyon mouth, the summit, the street, the river, the lake and the year.
Read the pageQuick answers
Y Mountain, answered
About 1.1 miles each way from the parking lot to the letter, with roughly 1,050 feet of gain, which most people cover in forty five minutes to an hour going up and rather less coming down. It is a short trail with a serious gradient rather than a long easy one, and the second half is materially harder than the first because the shade runs out and the turns get shorter. The full Y Mountain trail continues well above the letter and is a different undertaking.
It measures 380 feet tall by 130 feet wide, which makes it larger than any individual letter of the Hollywood Sign. It was poured on a single day in April 1906 by a human chain of students and faculty passing buckets of lime, sand and rock up the slope, given a layer of rock in 1907, and finished with a three foot concrete wall around it in 1908 using twenty thousand pounds of concrete carried up the same way.
Because they ran out of daylight. The plan in April 1906 was to lay three letters on the hillside, and the work party started with the middle one. After six hours of passing buckets up a mountain by hand they had completed that one letter and nothing else, so the other two were postponed. They were later canceled outright, and the single letter has been there ever since.
Yes, including the parking. There is no fee to walk the trail and no charge on the lots that serve it. What there is instead is a set of rules that come with institutional rather than municipal ownership: no alcohol, drugs, fireworks, fires or weapons anywhere on the property, no demonstrations, and parking lots that open at four in the morning and are gated at ten at night.
Brigham Young University owns the trail, the letter and roughly 81 acres around them. The purchase followed legislation passed by Congress in December 2014 requiring the conveyance from the Forest Service, and the university announced the completed acquisition in 2016. That ownership is why the trail is benched and graded to a standard the surrounding national forest paths are not, and why the parking hours and the conduct rules are the university's.
Yes. There is no seasonal closure and the parking lots keep the same hours all year. What changes is the surface: snow at the top, ice on the shaded lower turns and a hard packed crust on the exposed sections from about December to March. The climb is manageable in those conditions with traction devices on your boots. The descent on ice, on a loose steep trail, is the part that ends badly for people who came without them.
The lots open at four in the morning and are secured by a gate at ten at night. The trail itself is normally open to foot traffic around the clock, so the gate rather than the trail is the constraint on an evening walk. The four in the morning opening exists because sunrise is by a wide margin the busiest hour on this trail, and the ten at night closure catches people who worked backwards from sunset instead of from the gate.
No, none, at any point on it. The slope faces roughly west, it holds the afternoon sun, and above the first few switchbacks there is almost no shade either. In July and August that combination is the single most common reason people get into difficulty on a trail barely a mile long. Carry more water than the distance suggests, and start before seven in the morning if the forecast is over ninety.
No. The letter sits partway up the face and the Y Mountain trail continues well above it onto rougher, unimproved ground with substantially more climbing. Almost everybody who starts up this trail is going to the letter, and treating the letter as the destination is the correct decision in ordinary footwear with the water most people carry. Going higher is a planned day rather than an extension of an hour's walk.
A mile up to a letter, and the whole valley behind you at the top
The trail is a visitor's hour. An address near it is a different calculation: what the trailhead traffic does to a residential street at sunrise, how much of the bench is university ground rather than open land, and what the gradient behind the last row of houses means for everything from a driveway to a view. Tell me which streets you are circling and I will put you with a Utah County partner agent who works that side of the bench, and stay on the file for the financing side.
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